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there are no "frames". this hive uses just the top bars. It depends on exactly what wood you use, but we fit 23 X 24" X 1.5" bars in this hive. Be sure to research top bar hives before you get started. A good start is biobees.com

I don't know that you would have the same problem in Texas. Those bees are not african bees, they are hybrids with the feral bees. I've never heard them taking over hives.... A lot of beekeeper like the african hybrids because they generate more honey than the domesticate breeds.

why are the africanized bees entering your hive? If you are suggesting that they will breed with your queen initially, that might be true, but other than that, if you buy bees, you are buying domesticated bees, not africanized bees. A lot of beekeepers use africanized/hybrid bees as well...

Queen excluders keep the queen located in a certain part of the hive. Most natural beekeepers and top bar beekeepers do not use them. The queen will naturally want to lay in the combs nearest the entrance.

I let them enter and exit through the big hole, but you can reduce it, if you think it is necessary. The slot was initially for ventilation and a screened bottom. I am not convinced it is entirely necessary, that is why I left it out.

People keep bees in many different kinds of hives, but we will focus on a cheap and simple design, called the Honey Cow. MATERIALS: 55 gallon plastic barrel, preferably food grade (makes two hives) 22 feet of 1x2 nominal lumber 46 feet of 1x1 lumber 2 X 8 foot of 2x4 nominal lumber A 3 feet by...