dillpickle
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is there a natural/cheap way to get rid of fleas n dogs?
getting rid of fleas
- Thread starter dillpickle
- Start date
so lucky
Almost Self-Reliant
When we had pets inside, we would use the bombs occasionally. You have to do it again in about 7-10 days, tho. And be sure to treat the dogs at the same time, to get the ones lurking on the animals. They are really hard to eradicate. My sister has good luck with the spot-on treatment, but it is neither cheap nor natural. We have used diotomaceous earth and borax in the basement, which worked well on the concrete floor. Maybe someone else has some ideas.
Beekissed
Mountain Sage
I feed my pooch garlic and it does a great job. Also, I don't know why wood ashes wouldn't be a good dusting powder for the dog...it works so well for chickens. Cheap, natural and shouldn't be harmful in any way.
I also fill the bottom of his dog house with cedar chips to repel fleas....makes him smell great too.
I also fill the bottom of his dog house with cedar chips to repel fleas....makes him smell great too.
hqueen13
<Insert Snazzy Title Here
No, there isn't a cheap/easy way to get rid of fleas once they are there and infested. Been there done that...
The biggest thing is catching it before it gets bad. Once they are infested then it is REALLY hard. We are still dealing with the aftermath of that and trying to get the little(r) dog healthy again.
Here are some of the things we did:
- Black walnut leaves/branches under the furniture. Apparently this works better when you can get fresh leaves. We were too late into fall to really get any leaves.
- diotomacious earth. Be sure to get the kind from the garden center, not the pool center. Also placed under furniture. It can be a lung irritant, to be sure to be really careful and not get it anywhere that it could be breathed too much. Vacuum up a couple days after application.
- Have the carpets straight up professionally cleaned. This was the biggest thing to getting them OUT of the carpet. They are so finicky that it is hard to be sure you've REALLY cleaned the whole thing and gotten them all. One flea left and the whole darn cycle can start over.
- Washed the dogs bedding a LOT in HOT water.
- Used essential oils for a "bomb" and on the dogs. I'll give the usual disclaimer that I use VERY high quality oils. I have no problems ingesting them and using them topically. That being said, if you don't know the quality of your oils, please don't use these techniques. I used a combination of Black Pepper Oil, Peppermint Oil and Oregano Oil in our diffuser running on HIGH for several hours while everyone was out of the house/room. I put the chinchillas in the back bedroom, and locked the dogs in there with them and then shut the door and let it run while we were out to dinner. The next evening we did the same thing in the bedroom with the door shut. I also applied several different essential oils to the dogs - behind their shoulders, on their rump and on the back of all their feet, daily. Lemongrass is a good one, I use a blend called Purification that is also good.
- For the itching and those issues I used Neem shampoo on the dog for the soothing effect on the skin. The trouble with a "flea bath" is that it is often drying to the skin, which is already irritated. The Neem is very gentle, and helped him to heal, and get a lot of the fleas off of them both as well.
Eventually our vet gave us some stuff that was a relative of frontline. I think we would have been able to handle this a lot faster if we had realized it was fleas a lot sooner. We have lived in the same place for 4 years and NEVER had them at all, and when the dog started to get itchy we kept checking and it took weeks before we found them. By then it was pretty bad.
No matter what you choose, it will take several different tactics to completely get rid of them.
For prevention it was suggested to me to use nemotodes in the yard and lawn as they will eat the fleas (and other bugs as well I believe) out in the environment. It was also recommended to spread coffee grounds as the bugs don't seem to like that either.
Best of luck, I know how difficult it can be!!
The biggest thing is catching it before it gets bad. Once they are infested then it is REALLY hard. We are still dealing with the aftermath of that and trying to get the little(r) dog healthy again.
Here are some of the things we did:
- Black walnut leaves/branches under the furniture. Apparently this works better when you can get fresh leaves. We were too late into fall to really get any leaves.
- diotomacious earth. Be sure to get the kind from the garden center, not the pool center. Also placed under furniture. It can be a lung irritant, to be sure to be really careful and not get it anywhere that it could be breathed too much. Vacuum up a couple days after application.
- Have the carpets straight up professionally cleaned. This was the biggest thing to getting them OUT of the carpet. They are so finicky that it is hard to be sure you've REALLY cleaned the whole thing and gotten them all. One flea left and the whole darn cycle can start over.
- Washed the dogs bedding a LOT in HOT water.
- Used essential oils for a "bomb" and on the dogs. I'll give the usual disclaimer that I use VERY high quality oils. I have no problems ingesting them and using them topically. That being said, if you don't know the quality of your oils, please don't use these techniques. I used a combination of Black Pepper Oil, Peppermint Oil and Oregano Oil in our diffuser running on HIGH for several hours while everyone was out of the house/room. I put the chinchillas in the back bedroom, and locked the dogs in there with them and then shut the door and let it run while we were out to dinner. The next evening we did the same thing in the bedroom with the door shut. I also applied several different essential oils to the dogs - behind their shoulders, on their rump and on the back of all their feet, daily. Lemongrass is a good one, I use a blend called Purification that is also good.
- For the itching and those issues I used Neem shampoo on the dog for the soothing effect on the skin. The trouble with a "flea bath" is that it is often drying to the skin, which is already irritated. The Neem is very gentle, and helped him to heal, and get a lot of the fleas off of them both as well.
Eventually our vet gave us some stuff that was a relative of frontline. I think we would have been able to handle this a lot faster if we had realized it was fleas a lot sooner. We have lived in the same place for 4 years and NEVER had them at all, and when the dog started to get itchy we kept checking and it took weeks before we found them. By then it was pretty bad.
No matter what you choose, it will take several different tactics to completely get rid of them.
For prevention it was suggested to me to use nemotodes in the yard and lawn as they will eat the fleas (and other bugs as well I believe) out in the environment. It was also recommended to spread coffee grounds as the bugs don't seem to like that either.
Best of luck, I know how difficult it can be!!
the funny farm6
Super Self-Sufficient
For fleas currently on your pets wash with DAWN dish soap! Don't use any other brand! Just the usual wet, lather, let sit 2-3 min, rinse. They will be dead! And you can use on puppies, kittens, cats, and dogs!
For your home, take a shallow pan, cake pan, pie tin, ect. And use @ 1 part dawn to 2 parts water. Make sure ther is @ 1/2 inch in the pan. When you go to bed at night, set a lamp on the floor and place the pan of soapy water under the lamp. The fleas are attracted to the light and jump toward it and get cought in the soapy water. Works very well. No chemicals involved.
Also sweep and vacume your home everyday. The eggs that fleas lay don't stay on the dog! They fall off onto your floor and by sweeping and vacuming you can get most of those eggs befrore they hatch!
You may have to do a few bathes before it is all said and done but, you can redo this every day with no ill effects on your pet. We have even washed 4 week old puppies with it with no problems. And 5 week old kittens.
For your home, take a shallow pan, cake pan, pie tin, ect. And use @ 1 part dawn to 2 parts water. Make sure ther is @ 1/2 inch in the pan. When you go to bed at night, set a lamp on the floor and place the pan of soapy water under the lamp. The fleas are attracted to the light and jump toward it and get cought in the soapy water. Works very well. No chemicals involved.
Also sweep and vacume your home everyday. The eggs that fleas lay don't stay on the dog! They fall off onto your floor and by sweeping and vacuming you can get most of those eggs befrore they hatch!
You may have to do a few bathes before it is all said and done but, you can redo this every day with no ill effects on your pet. We have even washed 4 week old puppies with it with no problems. And 5 week old kittens.
Beekissed
Mountain Sage
You can also salt your carpets. Will desiccate fleas and their eggs....leave it in the carpet for a week, then vacuum it up. Repeat if necessary.
texas75563
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Pyrethrins' outstanding properties are:
* Low Toxicity-Environment friendly
* Rapid knockdown and kill of insects.
* Quickly kills insects as a contact killer.
* Widely used flushes insects out of their hiding places
* No Insect Immunity
Pyrethrins are natural-botanical insecticides found in daisy-like Chrysanthemum flowers(Tanacetum cinerariaefolium) grown and harvested in Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda and Papua New Guinea.
chysanthemum flowers
Pyrethrins have a low order of toxicity to warm-blooded animals and can be used even in the home with extreme confidence. When pyrethrins are combined with a synergist like piperonyl butoxide, its "killing power" against insects increases dramatically.
The United States Department of Agriculture has stated that synergized pyrethrum " is probably the safest of all insecticides for use in food plants "and that" a pyrethrum formulation is approved for use around foodstuffs". Pyrethrin may be used with safety in food plants, homes and around animals where more hazardous materials cannot be used. It has a long history of satisfactory use around mammals and birds.
Pyrethrin and the synergists are biodegradable and rapidly disintegrate in sunlight and air, thus assuring you that there will be no excessive build-up of insecticides dispensed in the area being treated.
Pyrethrum has been used effectively to control insects for decades and is non-persistent, decomposing rapidly in the environment. This rapid degradation of pyrethrum has resulted in little known cases of insect resistance making it an excellent choice for the control of insects in a wide variety of settings.
From a toxicological viewpoint, pyrethrum has been extensively studied. It is low in acute toxicity to man and other vertebrate animals. It recently went through a thorough review by the US EPA during the re-registration process. Similarly pyrethrum has been listed on Annex I on the plant protection directive in the EU (#91/414) and is under review in the Biocides Directive (98/8).
Repellent and Insecticidal Properties
Pyrethrin, usually considered only for its knock-down and kill effect, also possesses substantial inherent repellency of insects. Observations in food establishments demonstrate that flies are not immediately killed but are found more often on windowsills or near doorways,bearing out the observation that pyrethrins are effective repellents, kill slowly due to the low dosage applied and drive the fly to seek the outdoors before dying. In any event, the most noticeable effect after a short period of operation of the automatic timed-aerosol dispenser is the absence of any winged insects of even crawling insects, such as cockroaches, in aerosolized space.
Pyrethrum is a completely organic, environment-safe insecticide derived from 100% African Chrysanthemum flowers. Pyrethrum powder is toxic to ants, roaches, silverfish, bed bugs, fleas, wasps, spiders, crickets, mosquitoes, and just about every other category of unwanted house or garden pest. Because it decomposes rapidly in the environment, pyrethrum has been approved for a wide range of indoor and outdoor uses, including homes, restaurants, broad-scale spraying operations, and organic farms.
Because to the pyrethrin is a compound , there is no know immunity with insects. Insect resistance is not an issue.
HOW TO MAKE YOUR PYRETHRUM INSECTICIDE: Pyrethrum daisies are easy to grow in the English garden and are readily available at most good plant retailers. That way - if you have pyrethrum in the garden - you will have the main ingredient conveniently close by when you are ready to make your spray. The importance of this becomes clear when you realise howquickly the active ingredient within the pyrethrum flower will degrade..
.
The concentration of pyrethrums is at its peak when the flowers are in full bloom, this is recognised as the time when the first row of florets on the central disk opens - up until the time that all the florets are open. Pick the flowers in full bloom and then hang them in a dark sheltered spot to dry.
Traditionally, in Japan, the flowers were harvested with their stems intact, and hung upside down in water for between 24 to 48 hours before drying. The reason for this process is that it can increases the pyrethrin levels. Once dry, crush the flowers into a powder using a mortar and pestle or a blender. The finer the powder is the more effective it will be against insects, but it will deteriorate more rapidly.
To apply as an insecticidal dust, simply apply the dried and crushed flowers on to the leaves of plants that require its protection.
To use as a spray, soak ten grams of pyrethrum powder into three litres of warm water for three hours, after this it is ready to be sprayed. It is possible to use fresh flowers instead of dried but you will need to use up to four times the amount of planr material to get the same concentration of active ingredient.
The efficiency of pyrethrum can be greatly improved with the addition of other products such as sesame seed oil or washing up liquid. These can be added at a dose of one teaspoon per litre of solution and can increase the effectiveness of your spray up to four times the norm.
.
As mentioned before Pyrethrum breaks down quickly after application giving no more than 48 hours of protection ( 12 hours is generally nearer the mark) depending on the concentration of the mixture sprayed. One of the ways that this degradation can be slowed down is to add anti-oxidants such as tannic acid, a chemical found in the bark of several tree species. Even so it will be necessary to reapply after rain.
You may need to experiment with the amount of water your powder is being added to as the concentration of pyrethrins in the dried flowers will be an unknown variable. If your spray does not seem to kill insects, try using use less water next time you make your spray.
HOW TO USE YOUR PYRETHRUM INSECTICIDE: Pyrethrins are more effective at lower temperatures, so for best results, apply in early evening when temperatures are lower. Spray both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves, because the active chemicals must directly contact the insects. Try to reach any which may be hiding between the leaf crevices. You should find that your first spray will often excite hiding insects and bring them out of their place of hiding. If so, a second dose of the right concentration should finish them off. Remember to never use pyrethrin sprays or powders around waterways or ponds.
HOW TO STORE YOUR PYRETHRUM INSECTICIDE: Pyrethrins are notoriously unstable components which can quickly break down when exposed to light and heat. However the levels of Pyrethrin concentrations can be maintained for up ot six months by keeping the crushed flowers in a freezer. Alternatively you can try keeping your powder in a sealed container, and storing it in the fridge. This should also keep your prepared pyrethrum powder viable for at least a couple of months.
* Low Toxicity-Environment friendly
* Rapid knockdown and kill of insects.
* Quickly kills insects as a contact killer.
* Widely used flushes insects out of their hiding places
* No Insect Immunity
Pyrethrins are natural-botanical insecticides found in daisy-like Chrysanthemum flowers(Tanacetum cinerariaefolium) grown and harvested in Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda and Papua New Guinea.
chysanthemum flowers
Pyrethrins have a low order of toxicity to warm-blooded animals and can be used even in the home with extreme confidence. When pyrethrins are combined with a synergist like piperonyl butoxide, its "killing power" against insects increases dramatically.
The United States Department of Agriculture has stated that synergized pyrethrum " is probably the safest of all insecticides for use in food plants "and that" a pyrethrum formulation is approved for use around foodstuffs". Pyrethrin may be used with safety in food plants, homes and around animals where more hazardous materials cannot be used. It has a long history of satisfactory use around mammals and birds.
Pyrethrin and the synergists are biodegradable and rapidly disintegrate in sunlight and air, thus assuring you that there will be no excessive build-up of insecticides dispensed in the area being treated.
Pyrethrum has been used effectively to control insects for decades and is non-persistent, decomposing rapidly in the environment. This rapid degradation of pyrethrum has resulted in little known cases of insect resistance making it an excellent choice for the control of insects in a wide variety of settings.
From a toxicological viewpoint, pyrethrum has been extensively studied. It is low in acute toxicity to man and other vertebrate animals. It recently went through a thorough review by the US EPA during the re-registration process. Similarly pyrethrum has been listed on Annex I on the plant protection directive in the EU (#91/414) and is under review in the Biocides Directive (98/8).
Repellent and Insecticidal Properties
Pyrethrin, usually considered only for its knock-down and kill effect, also possesses substantial inherent repellency of insects. Observations in food establishments demonstrate that flies are not immediately killed but are found more often on windowsills or near doorways,bearing out the observation that pyrethrins are effective repellents, kill slowly due to the low dosage applied and drive the fly to seek the outdoors before dying. In any event, the most noticeable effect after a short period of operation of the automatic timed-aerosol dispenser is the absence of any winged insects of even crawling insects, such as cockroaches, in aerosolized space.
Pyrethrum is a completely organic, environment-safe insecticide derived from 100% African Chrysanthemum flowers. Pyrethrum powder is toxic to ants, roaches, silverfish, bed bugs, fleas, wasps, spiders, crickets, mosquitoes, and just about every other category of unwanted house or garden pest. Because it decomposes rapidly in the environment, pyrethrum has been approved for a wide range of indoor and outdoor uses, including homes, restaurants, broad-scale spraying operations, and organic farms.
Because to the pyrethrin is a compound , there is no know immunity with insects. Insect resistance is not an issue.
HOW TO MAKE YOUR PYRETHRUM INSECTICIDE: Pyrethrum daisies are easy to grow in the English garden and are readily available at most good plant retailers. That way - if you have pyrethrum in the garden - you will have the main ingredient conveniently close by when you are ready to make your spray. The importance of this becomes clear when you realise howquickly the active ingredient within the pyrethrum flower will degrade..
.
The concentration of pyrethrums is at its peak when the flowers are in full bloom, this is recognised as the time when the first row of florets on the central disk opens - up until the time that all the florets are open. Pick the flowers in full bloom and then hang them in a dark sheltered spot to dry.
Traditionally, in Japan, the flowers were harvested with their stems intact, and hung upside down in water for between 24 to 48 hours before drying. The reason for this process is that it can increases the pyrethrin levels. Once dry, crush the flowers into a powder using a mortar and pestle or a blender. The finer the powder is the more effective it will be against insects, but it will deteriorate more rapidly.
To apply as an insecticidal dust, simply apply the dried and crushed flowers on to the leaves of plants that require its protection.
To use as a spray, soak ten grams of pyrethrum powder into three litres of warm water for three hours, after this it is ready to be sprayed. It is possible to use fresh flowers instead of dried but you will need to use up to four times the amount of planr material to get the same concentration of active ingredient.
The efficiency of pyrethrum can be greatly improved with the addition of other products such as sesame seed oil or washing up liquid. These can be added at a dose of one teaspoon per litre of solution and can increase the effectiveness of your spray up to four times the norm.
.
As mentioned before Pyrethrum breaks down quickly after application giving no more than 48 hours of protection ( 12 hours is generally nearer the mark) depending on the concentration of the mixture sprayed. One of the ways that this degradation can be slowed down is to add anti-oxidants such as tannic acid, a chemical found in the bark of several tree species. Even so it will be necessary to reapply after rain.
You may need to experiment with the amount of water your powder is being added to as the concentration of pyrethrins in the dried flowers will be an unknown variable. If your spray does not seem to kill insects, try using use less water next time you make your spray.
HOW TO USE YOUR PYRETHRUM INSECTICIDE: Pyrethrins are more effective at lower temperatures, so for best results, apply in early evening when temperatures are lower. Spray both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves, because the active chemicals must directly contact the insects. Try to reach any which may be hiding between the leaf crevices. You should find that your first spray will often excite hiding insects and bring them out of their place of hiding. If so, a second dose of the right concentration should finish them off. Remember to never use pyrethrin sprays or powders around waterways or ponds.
HOW TO STORE YOUR PYRETHRUM INSECTICIDE: Pyrethrins are notoriously unstable components which can quickly break down when exposed to light and heat. However the levels of Pyrethrin concentrations can be maintained for up ot six months by keeping the crushed flowers in a freezer. Alternatively you can try keeping your powder in a sealed container, and storing it in the fridge. This should also keep your prepared pyrethrum powder viable for at least a couple of months.
usedteabag
Power Conserver
My mother-in-law, who is very much into essential oils, recommends rosemary as well. Works wonders on her dog and two cats!
Beekissed
Mountain Sage
Doesn't Pyrethrum also kill beneficial bugs in the garden, particularly honey bees?
ThrottleJockey
Power Conserver
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Okay, any other ideas? In the past I have successfully used garlic, borax and even many over the counter dusts, shampoos and "spot" treatments such as frontline. The dog we have now came to us with a horrible infestation and we have been using all these methods for over a year now with absolutely NO success. Oh, we also tried the dawn dish soap and use a flea comb, bathing every other day...We have no carpet or rugs in the home and are surrounded by cedar and black walnut trees. HELP!
