Sharpening the chainsaw

User4960

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It is not a glamorous thing, but it needs doing, and when it is done, the wood cuts sooo much better.

Faster cutting, uses a LOT less fuel. Cuts are straighter too, and that makes the cut go faster too.

Time for time, what saves more time? Not sharpening the saw often like every half hour, or spending 7 minutes every half hour to sharpen it?


Investing those 7 minutes to sharpen the saw saves time. It does.

Ya get yer rat tail file, right size fer the machine. Small machines use the skinny ones, medium sized saws use the bigger rat tail file.

Simple method is "push only" from down and back to up.
Actually lift on the file as it goes through, and give it a little twist toward the tooth.
Don't rush, just do it. I count the teeth, others start at the color link.
Do all on one side, turn it around, use your good arm still, and repeat.
From each side ya get half the teeth. Don't try to get them all from one side.

My file fits in the scabbard bar cover thing! Amazing invention! Reminds me of cup holders in cars, took so long to invent them right.
Stihl, it's always a good idea to have a new spare chain, and even a workable old one for double back up.

I sure do like how my saw's chain is so easy to change! They put the gear on the bar, and it is cogged to tighten or loosen. Twist it all the way to loose and on it goes.
 

Joel_BC

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marshallsmyth said:
My file fits in the scabbard bar cover thing! Amazing invention! Reminds me of cup holders in cars, took so long to invent them right.
Stihl, it's always a good idea to have a new spare chain, and even a workable old one for double back up.
:yuckyuck

A little "in joke"...

Yeah, I've been using that brand for years, too. Husqvarna is the other one that's excellent.

Good on you for posting this, marshallsmyth, for those who are learning the ropes with chainsaws.

There are probably a few good Youtube vids on the subject... haven't looked.
 

k15n1

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I cut down a black walnut 2 years ago. Borrowed a chain saw and was handed, to my surprise, 10 extra chains. Apparently, the owner couldn't be bothered to sharpen the chains and hired some shop to do it. But changing the chain isn't exactly instantaneous, either. Anyway, the walnut was really hard on the chain. Had to touch up at least every tank of gas, sometimes more.
 

Joel_BC

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k15n1 said:
I cut down a black walnut 2 years ago. Borrowed a chain saw and was handed, to my surprise, 10 extra chains. Apparently, the owner couldn't be bothered to sharpen the chains and hired some shop to do it. But changing the chain isn't exactly instantaneous, either. Anyway, the walnut was really hard on the chain. Had to touch up at least every tank of gas, sometimes more.
Up where I live, people are cutting softwood ("evergreen" or coniferous) trees 90% of the time. For which you sharpen the teeth on the chain to a particular angle. I'm not sure, but I believe that if you're cutting a true hardwood - and black walnut is one of those - the recommended angle for the teeth is different.

I know that for ripping a log, rather than crosscutting it, different sharpening patterns are recommended.
 

User4960

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I do only a very little ripping and don't change the angles, but it does dull the teeth faster. Hard to go real straight too. I cut a 10 foot length of 2X12 to 2X10" awhile back. That was tricky, but I got it acceptable. If anything like circular saws, my guess would be flat teeth? Maybe there are special chains for that. Next time I go to town I'll ask. Just curious now. I understand they have small mills that cut with a chainsaw they use in places like Kentucky. Saw an ad for one once, no details about the chain though.
 

Nifty

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I have the HARDEST time sharpening my chainsaw's teeth. It seems like doing it right is 1/2 science and 1/2 art and 100% attention to detail (which I lack).

I've read instructions, watched videos, etc. but I can never get it down right. It also doesn't help that I'm terribly impatient and want to just rip through the sharpening with a dremmel as quickly as possible.
 

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Is there a battery operated power tool to sharpen chains?
 

Flytyer24

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ok HERE WE GO,

Owning a chainsaw is one of those things that everyone has but not many people really know much about. Having growing up in a logging community I can tell you many people I know have been injured and killed. BE SAFE. Remember your reactive forces. If you go clockwise from the top of the bar around to the bottom the saw will do different things. TOP it will push, top corner is the kick-back area.... watch that you do't start here, bottom corner the safe part you can use for starting plunge cuts, and the bottom will pull the saw away from you. I am sure you guys have figured that all out but just throwing it out there for the newbies.

I used to just free hand file also but found the results are variable. I have found a lot of people think they do a good job hand filing but really its only a acceptable level. I have gone over to just using a file guide. Husqvarna puts out a roller model that I call the JPD (just push dummy). It set on each tooth (holds it at the optimum 10 degrees below level and parrallel to the tick marks on the tooth, also holds that file at the appropiate height above the tooth). Then you just push until you feel all the burrs come off. After you do this I suggest you set all the depth gauges (rakers for some) to the right level. There are cheap gauges for this... I suggest the ones that are tooth by tooth so you don't have to count strokes when sharpening the teeth. These gauges are important... file them too low and you are just stressing your saw unessecarily, not enough the teath won't be able to bite in...

Sharpening is just the tip of the iceberg in taking care of your saw. Yor should regulary cheak your air filter and clean it with warm soapy water. This will prolong the life of your saw. A lot of people neglect this then start leaning out there carb and then when they get a new filter BAM the burn out their saw.

Other things to do that are paramount is after a day of cutting, take that bar off and clean the channel. Debris will load up in there and start puching the chain out and it will chew up that channel. While you have that bar off file all of the burrs off the sides of the bar where the chain has rubbed. Clean out the oil ports on the bar too.

Before you put the chain back on check and make sure your drive sprocket isn't worn out (this is what turns the chain). These are the main reason people throw chains. Finally, When re-tensioning your chain tighten it until when you lift the saw by grabbing the chain and lifting it with one hand. only one guide tooth should show above the bar.

I know that was a lot but it is important if you are gonna cut a lot or a little... That saw will last.

Dolmar, Stihl, husqvarna all make good saws.... Buyer beware that the homeowner models are designed for 100 hrs of use... so bite the bullet and get a decent one... then take care of it...

Good Luck my fellow Sawyers...
 

Flytyer24

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marshallsmyth said:
Is there a battery operated power tool to sharpen chains?
Yes, there are some that will hook straight to your truck battery... they have wall plug ones too that look like miter saws.
 

Flytyer24

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Joel_BC said:
k15n1 said:
I cut down a black walnut 2 years ago. Borrowed a chain saw and was handed, to my surprise, 10 extra chains. Apparently, the owner couldn't be bothered to sharpen the chains and hired some shop to do it. But changing the chain isn't exactly instantaneous, either. Anyway, the walnut was really hard on the chain. Had to touch up at least every tank of gas, sometimes more.
Up where I live, people are cutting softwood ("evergreen" or coniferous) trees 90% of the time. For which you sharpen the teeth on the chain to a particular angle. I'm not sure, but I believe that if you're cutting a true hardwood - and black walnut is one of those - the recommended angle for the teeth is different.

I know that for ripping a log, rather than crosscutting it, different sharpening patterns are recommended.
The only difference I do with softwood is adjust my depth gauges. The gauge I use has a slot for softwood and hardwood... Ripping is the hardest work a saw will ever do... You can use any chain if you only do it a bit... but the real ripping chains are machine ground. They are much more aggressive and can't be hand filed.
 
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