How do you know if a seed product is hybrid?

[sleuth]

It doesn't necessarily say so on the package, and googling them seems to give both hybrid and heirloom results for the same variety.

 

[so lucky]

Maybe it's an older hybrid that is now reproducing true to form? I would think that a true hybrid still has to have two different varieties for parents. What variety and kind of seed are we talking about, sleuth?

 

[sleuth]

Maybe it's an older hybrid that is now reproducing true to form? I would think that a true hybrid still has to have two different varieties for parents. What variety and kind of seed are we talking about, sleuth?

Well, the one that led to the question was a packet of Burpee Crimson Sweet Watermelon.

But really, I'm just looking for some general guidance on how to know. We are thinking of saving some seed next year and I want to identify which varieties I can save now.

Of course, I am also learning about open pollination and such, and I'm finding it may not be feasible to save seed since we typically grow several different varieties of each vegetable.

 

[k15n1]

The only way to be sure is to raise several generations of the seeds. Typically the plants are crossed to produce the first generation F0 and the seeds are the second generation F1, which are sold to gardeners. Subsequent seeds are F2 a total crap shoot because you don't know how they were pollinated. Even if they're self pollinated, the selection of traits may be more like the parents than the hybrid (F1) generation that you want.

I've been buying from Johnny's, which clearly labels hybrids (usually says F1), organic, etc. I know it sounds up-ity, but maybe you could buy seeds from a seed supplier instead of the grocery store. I actually do both, depending on the price, convenience, and variety. Still, I'm willing to pay a little more for the better labeling, germination test results, and generally just better directions that come with the seeds from Johnny's.

If you're terribly limited in space, don't bother with saving these seeds. But if you have room to experiment, why not?

Also, saving seeds requires proper preparation and storage of the seed... Some of mine molded the first year I tried it.

 

[baymule]

If you want to save seed, stagger planting the different varieties so that the variety you want to save blooms first. Mark those vegetables or fruit with a ribbon, stake in the ground next to it, or some form of ID that you will know. Generally, you get more seed than you can plant in one year anyway, so save enough for the following year, then start another variety early for that year. Or you can plant on opposite corners of your property. Some of the heritage seed catalogs specify how far apart to plant different varieties for saving seed.

http://www.rareseeds.com/

http://www.seedsavers.org/

http://www.southernexposure.com/

 

[so lucky]

For your Crimson Sweet, it is now open pollinated. It was a cross between (Miles X Peacock)X Charleston Grey, released for sale in 1963. There seem to be Crimson Sweet "Types" that are hybrid. This info from the Victory Seeds website.

 

[sleuth]

I saw on another forum that almost all of the American Seed products by Plantation Products are open pollinated. I'm not sure if that's true, but I recently bought a mother load of them on clearance for about $0.03 - $0.05 a packet.

And if I'm understanding correctly, if you don't have heirloom, then open pollinated is the next preferred seed type to save??

 

[k15n1]

I think the important thing is that you have stable genetics. Open-pollinating and heirloom varieties both fit the bill.

Congrats on the seed acquisition. Even if you have some germination problems, you're still ahead.