17 Vegetables That Grow Well In The Shade

MoonShadows

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17 Vegetables That Grow Well In The Shade

We all have shade areas. Here's a bunch of veggies you can grow in those areas where the sun lovers just won't thrive.

shade-garden-vegetables.jpg


Most vegetables are high-light plants because they have to produce food. Sunlight is what helps them in food production process or photosynthesis. Unless they get sufficient time in the sun, they cannot make enough food for themselves and for us. However, there are a number of shade tolerant vegetables.

Leafy vegetables and herbs are at the top of the list because their food production as well as storage happens right there on the leaves. Root vegetables follow next. If you have a patch that receives light to partial shade, choose plants from the following selection.

1. Bok choy
Commonly called Chinese cabbage, this vegetable does not grow any cabbage heads, but have an open-leaved structure consisting of large, green leaves borne on long, spoon-shaped leaf stalks. High in Vitamin A and Vitamin C, as well as cancer protective glucosinolates, bok choy is ranked by CDC as the second highest among nutritionally dense vegetables. It is worth growing in any vegetable garden as a cool season crop, but can be grown all through the summer in partially shaded areas.

Minimum sun 2-3 hours

2. Komatsuna
This Japanese mustard spinach (Brassica rapa var. pervirida) is ideal for areas that are partially shaded because it can do with just 2-3 hours of direct sun. The spinach-like leaves can be used raw in salads as well as boiled or stir-fried. It can adapt to any preparation that you normally do with regular spinach. Komatsuna is usually grown as spring and fall crop, but you can grow it in the shade well into early summer and beyond.

Minimum sun – 2-3 hours

3. Scallions
Onions need long growing periods and plenty of sun to produce bulbs large enough for the effort. But, if you intend to harvest them as scallions or baby onion plants, any area that gets dappled light or partial shade is good enough. Start the seeds indoors and set the seedlings out in spring. Keep the patch watered. Start harvesting when the plants are 6 inches tall.

Minimum sun – 3 hours

4. Chives
Chives do equally well in the sun and in partial shade, although you will see fewer flowers in the clumps growing in shade. That’s not a bad thing altogether since too many flowers and the seed heads that follow can result in chives popping up all over the garden. It is better to start chives from divisions, rather than seeds, when you grow it in the shade.

Minimum sun – 3 hours

5. Oregano
Start your oregano plants from cuttings or divisions and grow them in a spot that gets just 3-4 hours of sunlight, preferably in a container to keep it in check. You will not get vigorous growth in the shade, but the stems can still trail on the ground and spread in all directions. The advantage of growing this perennial herb in partial shade is that it may delay or even prevent flowering.

Minimum sun – 3 hours

6. Lettuce
Lettuce loves it when it is really cool. Slightly shady conditions are better for keeping the delicate lettuce leaves crisp and sweet. If you have open leaved varieties, harvest the lower leaves to extend the harvest. Plant the head-forming varieties every two weeks for a continuous supply. Sufficient water and cooler temperatures in the shade would prevent the plants from bolting in the summer heat.

Minimum sun- 3-4 hours

7. Spinach
Spinach is quite happy growing in the shade most of the day, especially in the afternoon. This green is usually grown in two separate seasons, spring and fall, because it doesn’t do well in summer heat. But in partial shade, and with sufficient water to keep it from wilting, a small patch of spinach can provide plenty of greens all through the growing season. Just pick the leaves as they enlarge; this promotes the growth of more new leaves from the center of the tuft and prevents the plant from bolting.

Minimum sun – 3-4 hours

8. Arugula
This pleasantly pungent salad green (Eruca sativa) commonly called salad rocket, or just rocket, is rewarding to grow in the shade. The growth may be less vigorous, but the leaves would remain tender and they keep coming for a longer period than if it were grown in full sun. Arugula tolerates dry conditions to some extent, but frequent wilting would make the leaves tougher and bitter. In fact, that’s one of the reasons why growing rocket in partial shade is a great idea.

Minimum sun – 3-4 hours

9. Cilantro
This is one herb that elicits completely opposite reactions from people; some love it; some love to hate it. If you belong to the first group, cilantro is one of the most rewarding herbs to grow in a partially shaded area of the garden. You can sow the seeds any time from spring to mid-fall. In fact, sowing a new batch every two weeks is a good idea, especially if you want to harvest the whole plant rather than the outer leaves.

Minimum sun – 3-4 hours

10. Kale
Kale is a cold hardy vegetable that you could plant out early in spring and then keep harvesting long into the winter, but for the hot spell in summer. Heat makes the leaves tough and bitter, but that can be avoided if the plants are in the shade for the hottest part of the day. Shade-grown kale may not have very large leaves, but that just means you can accommodate more plants in the limited space you have.

Minimum sun – 3-4 hours

11. Celery
Celery needs a long growing season of cool temperatures to do well, so it often suffers in summer heat. But that is not an issue when you grow it in a partially shaded area. Start the seeds indoors early and plant the seedlings earlier than other spring vegetables. Celery thrives in moist soil and cannot stand even a bit of water stress. Keep it watered and fed, and harvest outer leaves when they are long enough. No blanching is required for shade grown celery.

Minimum sun – 4 hours

12. Chard
Chard can be grown in dappled light and partial shade, but you will not see large leaves borne on long stalks. But the smaller leaves are just as delicious in salads, and can be cooked to perfection. However, it will take at least five hours of sunlight to develop the succulent stalks.

Minimum sun – 3-5 hours

13. Carrots
Choose early maturing varieties for shade. Sow carrot seeds directly in well cultivated beds where they can get 4-5 hours of direct light and then bright light for the rest of the day. You may need to wait a bit longer for the tubers to develop. Even at full maturity they may look like baby carrots, but they remain tender and sweet too.

Minimum sun – 4-5 hours

14. Radishes
Radishes are cool season vegetables that usually take less than a month from seed to harvest. They may a take a bit longer when they don’t get full sun. However, the cooler microclimate in the shade means they can keep growing well into summer. So you can probably have several batches all through the growing season from spring to late fall, without the otherwise mandatory summer break.

Minimum sun – 4-5 hours

15. Potatoes
Don’t expect a lot of giant tubers from your plants grown in the shade, but you will have quite a few smaller spuds to show for your efforts if they get at least 5 hours of sun or 7 hours of dappled light.

Minimum sun – 5 hours

16. Tomatoes /Cherry tomatoes
Most vegetable gardeners cannot imagine a garden without tomatoes. These high-light plants can grow well in partial shade, especially cherry tomatoes although they may have fewer tomatoes. In warmer areas with hot summers, all tomato plants need some amount of shade from afternoon sun. Select early bearers and determinate types.

Minimum sun – 5 hours

17. Scarlet runner bean (Phaseolus coccineus)
This legume is your answer if you want a versatile vegetable crop in your shady garden. The whole pods can be used fresh as a vegetable when tender and the mature beans are just as delicious when cooked fresh or dried. The plants thrive in full sun, but can adapt to partial shade.

Minimum sun – 5 hours

How To Pamper Your Shade Garden Vegetables
When you grow vegetables in the shade, don’t forget that they are in less than ideal conditions. Maximize light availability by creating reflective surfaces in and around the garden. Painting walls and fences white and using reflective mulches around the plants may help to some extent.

Compensate for the limited light availability by ensuring the plants are otherwise well provided for. Make sure that they don’t suffer water stress or nutrient deficiency.

Make allowances for longer growing periods and smaller yield. If your growing season is not long enough, get early-maturing varieties. In the case of root crops like carrots and radishes, they may take nearly double the time to fatten up. The tubers you get will be smaller in size too. But one advantage with growing cool season crops in the shade is that it can extend the season. The leafy greens and tubers remain sweet and tender too.
 

sumi

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This is very good info thanks! We don't exactly get an abundance of sunshine over here and I see a couple of veggies that I want to grow on the list.
 

baymule

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In east Texas, summer is scorching, even in the shade. I have to plant for fall or early spring for cool season crops. But this is good information to know. I could extend my season for these vegetables!
 

MoonShadows

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This is very good info thanks! We don't exactly get an abundance of sunshine over here and I see a couple of veggies that I want to grow on the list.

Ah, that soft mist, huh?
 

sumi

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Rain, rain and more rain… And hail. And snow now and then! We get plenty sunshine, but days without is not uncommon.
 

Britesea

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I found this article on Survival Mom... about gardening in dry areas:\


Drought Gardening

I have lived in many countries over the years, and have always had a vegetable garden. Not just for saving money, as many of the countries I have lived in have had what we considered dirt cheap food, but for the better quality. Nothing compares to the taste of veggies fresh from the garden.

During the past several years, severe drought has hit a number of states here in America. Gardens are blackened and burnt, with food only coming in, grudgingly, thanks to heavy watering every other day. Watching this happen immediately took me back to two of the hardest places I have ever tried to raise food.

Kenya and Botswana. Both places have no rain at all for months and months at a time, and then an entire year’s worth of rain in about 6 weeks. The temperatures, especially in Kenya, make even Texas heatwaves look like a refrigerator. Water sources are unreliable, even in the towns. Yet both places are stuffed with families that grow not only enough to feed themselves, but enough to sell from their personal gardens, not from farms.

So how do they manage that?

They use the following technique, which involves three separate components, all of which are easily made by anyone with the ability to use a shovel, hammer or a trowel.

Raised beds
When we rented our home in Botswana, in the yard behind the house was a series of concrete troughs, roughly 4 feet wide, 2 feet deep, and 15 feet long, running north to south. Concrete base, concrete sides, they looked like fish pools. In the corner of the yard was a pile of soil. Red, dry and fairly lifeless. Those concrete troughs were the raised beds, designed to keep every drop of water you added to the soil from disappearing into the parched earth.

You would fill them with soil during the rainy season and plant your seeds. Drainage holes about 16 inches below the top of the beds would prevent the seeds damping off, and ensure a goodly amount of water for the initial growing. One improvement we made was to use each trough in turn as a deposit for any vegetable waste – a three inch layer of chopped vegetable waste or cow manure in the bottom of the trough would rapidly compost down and improve the soil immensely. At the end of the dry season, when you had harvested the crops, you would shovel out the soil and let the sun sterilize them for the next crop.

Shade netting
Every 3 feet in the troughs was a hole, just the right size to hold a ¾ inch PVC pipe. Most people used branches, but the PVC pipe was more stable and used by anyone who could afford it. Horizontal pipes across the top turned the uprights into a frame, to which you would attach the shade netting, a fine mesh nylon weave. You have seen it before, if you have seen a stone building being renovated – it costs about $30 for 100 yards of 5 foot wide and cuts down the light to the beds by about 40%, according to my very old light meter.

One length of the netting is tied to the top of the frame, and one length on the Eastern and Western side which could be raised or lowered, depending on the day. Our drying evening winds invariably came from the West, so lowering the side flap and tying it down until sunset prevented a lot of wind drying of plants. Then raising it again and tying down the Eastern side, just before bed, prevented the plants being scorched by sunrise.

Thread watering
Watering plants is the biggest problem during a drought. For some plants, the watering can came into play, but for others, like bean vines, pea vines, tomatoes, zucchinis, pumpkins and squashes, we used a technique called thread watering.

Along the top of the shade netting frames for these beds ran three PVC pipes, capped at one end, and attached to a gallon lidded bucket at the other. Each pipe had holes drilled in them – very small holes, less than a millimeter across. At each hole location, you would tie a coarse thread – about 6 lb. test fishing line size, and run the thread down to the base of the plant, pegging it into the soil with a 6” nail. Fill up each bucket every night, and the single gallon of water would irrigate the whole row for 24 hours with minimal losses. The lids did dual duty of preventing evaporation and preventing mosquitoes breeding.

You may want to try it, you may not. But I thought it would be interesting for those who are in the drought to see how people who are always in a drought feed themselves.
 

MoonShadows

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I found this article on Survival Mom... about gardening in dry areas:\

Thread watering
Watering plants is the biggest problem during a drought. For some plants, the watering can came into play, but for others, like bean vines, pea vines, tomatoes, zucchinis, pumpkins and squashes, we used a technique called thread watering.

Along the top of the shade netting frames for these beds ran three PVC pipes, capped at one end, and attached to a gallon lidded bucket at the other. Each pipe had holes drilled in them – very small holes, less than a millimeter across. At each hole location, you would tie a coarse thread – about 6 lb. test fishing line size, and run the thread down to the base of the plant, pegging it into the soil with a 6” nail. Fill up each bucket every night, and the single gallon of water would irrigate the whole row for 24 hours with minimal losses. The lids did dual duty of preventing evaporation and preventing mosquitoes breeding.

You may want to try it, you may not. But I thought it would be interesting for those who are in the drought to see how people who are always in a drought feed themselves.

That's some good info, Britesea. Thanks. I just saw the long range forecast the other day. They are predicting 30-35 - 90+ degree days this summer and possible drought for the Northeast.
 
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