Chain saw sharpening

[dacjohns]

OK folks, I've searched but can't find an answer to this.

I'm not good at sharpening chains on a chainsaw. I can't seem to break the code or get the feel of it. I almost always end up getting cuts that curve to the left. I know one of the causes of this is uneven sharpening of the cutters but no matter what I seem to do I can't fix the problem.

Anyone with experience in solving this problem besides taking the chain in to have it sharpened?

 

[gettinaclue]

You can buy a chain saw sharpener. DH has one. I bought it for him as a gift at Harbor Freight a few years ago.


Don't ask me how it works, I have no idea. LOL I just knew he hated sharpening them with the file I saw that - asked him if he would like it (showed it to him) he said he would, got it for him - he didnt like it LOL after using it a couple of times and hasn't touched it since.

If you don't get any better answers than this pitiful one, PM me and I'll get DH to help.

 

[eroommij]

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=chain+saw+sharpener&Submit=Go

 

[SKR8PN]

If you don't get the angles exactly even, it will pull the cut to either the left or the right. I also bought an electric chain saw sharpener that is indexed so it is impossible(well for most folks anyway) to mess it up.


One more thought........your bar isn't bent is it?

 

[dacjohns]

Flipped the bar over and it cut the same way.

This is a continuing problem of mine. I just haven't mastered the art of chain sharpening. Third saw and I still cut nice scallops to the left.

I've been trying to figure out which cutters to focus on and have been unsuccessful.

 

[dacjohns]

$40 or so might be a solution to frustration and trips to chain saw dealer to sharpen chains. Eight sharpenings and it's paid for.

 

[Brodes]

Well, Chicago tools are not known as a quality tool manufacturer and this tool may make things worse and cause even more frustration. Chain sharpening need not be difficult and it is important to have the right tools and to touch up the teeth often to keep it sharp.

I am assuming that the saw cuts straight after a professional sharpening of the chain and you are sure tat it is your technique that is causing you problems.

The next time you are at the chainsaw shop pickup a couple of items, one is a saw vise. Mine is made by Oregon and cost around 15 bucks when I bought mine. This tool is made to be driven into wood and will clamp the saw bar allowing you to use both hands. Also pick up a file guide. This tool clamps onto your file and has a wooden handle on one end. On the top of the guide it has angles of cut that allow you to determine the tooth angle relative to the bar. Find out what angle your chain is made for, many are different but 30 deg is common.

Always work along the tooth and not into it. Lay the file guide on the tooth so that the file is in the cutting area and the guide sits flat on the top. Rotate the guide so that the desired angle matches the bar and then slowly push the file through. You do not need to force the tool into the tooth, just let the file do the work. Be careful not to add a little swoop with the file at the end of the push. That is a common mistake and will change the angle on the cutter. If the chain is in good shape then one or two swipes every other tankful then it should stay sharp and true.

This was a very brief tutorial but if you practice a little you will get good reults and save quite a bit of money. You will also find that once the teeth reach around half their original size that you may need to also take a swipe or two on the rakers with a flat file because the teeth taper down towards the bar.

I hope this helps a little.

M

 

[Organics North]

I can not chat long know, but I use a chain saw most every day of the week.

Look up a "swedish roller guide" It is a couple dollars and you just use a file with it. It is cheap, fast easy and accurate.

curved cuts are uneaven sharpening on each side. Do not forget to file your rakers too! Otherwise you can have a sharp chain but it still will not cut. Rakers limmit the depth of cut, so be careful to not file too much off.
on

 

[dacjohns]

Know most of that. Putting it all into practice is the art I haven't mastered yet.

Cutting left, which teeth are out of whack? Please don't just say left or right. What I think are the left teeth might be you are calling the right teeth.

 

[SKR8PN]

Know most of that. Putting it all into practice is the art I haven't mastered yet.

Cutting left, which teeth are out of whack? Please don't just say left or right. What I think are the left teeth might be you are calling the right teeth.

As you are looking at the saw from the operator position as you are cutting a log, your saw is pulling to your left, correct?

If so, the left hand cutters are sharper than the right hand cutters. If it pulls left, even with a new chain or one that has been sharpened properly, then the bar guides are different heights from side to side. That will cause the chain to rock to one side and pull to that side. You may have to have the bar resurfaced.

One more thought......You might have the wrong size chain on the bar. If you use an 0.058 chain on an 0.063 groove bar that will rock the chain the same as worn bar groove.