Dog run to chicken coop

[~gd]

Bee I'm not disagreeing with anything you posted because I think you have a true flock with a Rooster in charge. BUT if bringing in meaties keep in mind that they are likely to have different diseases and immunities so give the litter a second thought.
ORChick Why a retaining wall? That is the beauty of a dog run, it doesn't need to be level. I think you can save a lot of work by thinking outside of the box. [literally a run does not have to be square or level.~gd

 

[ORChick]

Bee I'm not disagreeing with anything you posted because I think you have a true flock with a Rooster in charge. BUT if bringing in meaties keep in mind that they are likely to have different diseases and immunities so give the litter a second thought.
ORChick Why a retaining wall? That is the beauty of a dog run, it doesn't need to be level. I think you can save a lot of work by thinking outside of the box. [literally a run does not have to be square or level.~gd

If it were for a dog I would agree with you. But, since I want to build a sheltered area to put the nests in, it would be much simpler to start with a reasonably flat base. That part of the property really is on quite an incline, and I know, from the present coop and run, that chickens scratching tends to roll everything downhill eventually. I'm quite used to putting in small retaining walls; my vegetable garden is on the same hill, and all the beds need support in the front.

 

[Hinotori]

I use dog kennel panels and dog houses for my coop/runs. I run some smaller fencing around the bottom. We're going to be moving everything and set it all up different so the birds have even more room. We used PVC and a tarp to make a roof.

Some of my broodies have done great with other birds and broodies, others have been a bit aggressive. The silkies will raise chicks with each other just fine. Last hatch, I only gave each bird a couple eggs at the same time. They both raised the chicks together as one group. I leave all the silkies together when they have chicks, as they all let chicks sleep under them at night and the rooster helps with chick duties in the daytime. The easter eggers have been much happier being separated from the main flock for the sitting. Seems if someone is in a nest EVERYONE has to use that nest.

 

[Beekissed]

Bee I'm not disagreeing with anything you posted because I think you have a true flock with a Rooster in charge. BUT if bringing in meaties keep in mind that they are likely to have different diseases and immunities so give the litter a second thought.
ORChick Why a retaining wall? That is the beauty of a dog run, it doesn't need to be level. I think you can save a lot of work by thinking outside of the box. [literally a run does not have to be square or level.~gd

Precisely why one needs a deep litter .....I've used it successfully on two separate batches of meaties, the last one was 54 birds, and I'd not raise meaties on anything but deep litter, the older and more cultured the better. The last batch of DP chicks I raised were brooded right on the deep litter in my adult coop..the same deep litter that had been in place for half a year.

Control of Coccidiosis

The prevention or control of coccidiosis by starting day-old chicks on old built-up litter could have been prophesied years ago. It has long been recognized that chicks exposed to small dosages of coccidia at an early age developed a resistance which gave protection against heavier dosages to which they are often exposed from 4 to 12 weeks of age. Built-up litter has thus proved the most practical and effective means by which this resistance can be established.

As second reason why built-up litter could have been expected to limit coccidiosis is the fact that nearly all, if not all, living organisms including bacteria, protozoa, etc., have their parasites. Old built-up litter would seem to offer a favorable medium and conditions for the functioning of the parasites and enemies of coccidia and perhaps other diseases, too.

The third reason is that a 10 percent solution of ammonia spray is considered effective for killing coccidia. Being unable to withstand such spray, they may likewise be unable to withstand the constant ammoniacal atmosphere in built-up litter.

Either of the probably reasons cited offer a plausible explanation for the surprising results secured during the past three years by the Ohio Station and similar unrecorded results experienced by poultrymen everywhere.

The first experimental evidence with reference to the user of built-up litter as a sanitary procedure was secured by the Ohio Station in 1946 when it was first used in the brooder house. During the three years previous when the floor litter was removed and renewed at frequent intervals, the average mortality of 10 broods, or a total of 18,000 chicks, was 19 percent. During the succeeding three years with the use of built-up litter, the average mortality of 11 broods, or a total of 10,000 chicks, was 7 percent. Seldom did a brood escape an attack of coccidiosis before the use of built-up litter. Afterward there was no noticeable trouble from coccidiosis in 11 consecutive broods started and raised on the same old built-up floor litter. Old built-up litter is floor litter which has been used by two or more previous broods of chicks.

 

[Beekissed]

Bee I'm not disagreeing with anything you posted because I think you have a true flock with a Rooster in charge. BUT if bringing in meaties keep in mind that they are likely to have different diseases and immunities so give the litter a second thought.
ORChick Why a retaining wall? That is the beauty of a dog run, it doesn't need to be level. I think you can save a lot of work by thinking outside of the box. [literally a run does not have to be square or level.~gd

If it were for a dog I would agree with you. But, since I want to build a sheltered area to put the nests in, it would be much simpler to start with a reasonably flat base. That part of the property really is on quite an incline, and I know, from the present coop and run, that chickens scratching tends to roll everything downhill eventually. I'm quite used to putting in small retaining walls; my vegetable garden is on the same hill, and all the beds need support in the front.

I agree...the use of deep litter really requires some kind of way to contain that litter from being kicked out of an open air coop. The smaller mesh of the hardware cloth may help with that, so you may not need to use anything but that.

I built a temporary holding pen this fall for some DP meat roosters and didn't factor in the scratchability of the birds. The shavings and leaves placed in that pen were soon on the outside of the pen instead of where they were needed most. You can see in the pic below the beginning of the loss of that bedding.....before they were through I had a neat pile of leaves and shavings all along the outside of this pen.

 

[perchie.girl]

I'm looking for some ideas. My neighbour's dog died awhile ago, and she has offered me the chain link dog run for another chicken housing project, if I want it. I believe it is 8"x 10". Since I had to discourage 3 broody hens this last year because I simply did not have any room for more chickens I thought I might make this new place into a broody coop. And here is where I need some good ideas.

Assuming that all 3 who went broody this last summer do so again next year, and possibly at near the same time, do broody hens get on OK together? Meaning, can they share space, or do they need their own private sector? And how about once the chicks are there? (I have only ever had one broody at a time before, so don't know how they deal with each other) Are there aspects of a "regular" coop that are not needed for broody hens? And vice verse?

I built my present coop, and it has been quite adequate for the almost 6 years it has been in use. I know about covering the chainlink with finer hardware cloth to keep out predators, etc. What I am looking for (from all you more experienced flock owners) are ideas to make best use of this windfall; practical ideas that you might incorporate into such a project.

I was thinking also that it might be a place for meat birds at some point. I haven't had such in the past, mostly (again) from lack of room.

Thanks for any suggestions.

I have three hundred linear feat of dog kennel panels. Yep.... At this moment my coop is about eighteen by twelve but I have plans to expand it to 24 x 24 because I want to create a poultry house. here in the desert I need the protection from the sun to do my work for the birds. there will be one partition for three Goats. Then there will be Three partitions for two breeds of chickens and a flock of guineas. Also three movable partition areas configurable for what I need at the time. The rest of the space will be feed storage and cleaning area. The only change from using tarps I am going to do is use two solid walls out of recycled redwood fencing and garage doors One facing prevailing winds and one facing prevailing sun (south) The other two sides will be either chain-link or Aviary wire.... (I used to raise finches and Parakeets) My aviary wire is 10 gauge and the spaces on it are 1/2 x 3 inches. LOL anything that can get in WILL be edible....then I have finally enough salvaged material to do 2/3 of a tin roof.... By reconfiguration time I will have the rest even if I have to buy it.

The beauty of kennel panels is they use two clamps to fasten them together. this makes them infinitely changeable. And eventually movable.... I am planning on moving the coop from its present location 100 feet east to have the feed area accessible for feed delivery. After some thought I am going to go with BEEKISSED method of feeding my Goats. I am sooo tired of dukeing it out to wrestle their bale of hay into their yard.

Just a side note..... Do not expect to keep goats contained with dog kennel panels especially Nigerian Dwarfs and pygmys.... Little reprobates.... Without reinforcing the chainlink at the bottom either with Hot wire OR a rub board. Big Fat rub board... ahem.... my goats tend to make their own doors and rearrange "the furniture" too. I have a boat load of stories about them.

By the way if you need a shorter length wall than two of your panels can give you simply over lap them and put the clamps on the top and bottom.

deb

 

[Denim Deb]

Sounds like Gidget. The goat pen my hubby made is chain link fence and she's gotten out on 2 sides. I put cattle panels up along those side.