Weed suppression with burlap

bubba1358

Enjoys Recycling
Joined
Aug 15, 2013
Messages
63
Reaction score
2
Points
19
This winter, I will be building some hugelkulturs out of various felled tress on the property. I also have an orchard I want to control ground vegetation in. I was wondering if coating the mounds and orchard floor in burlap would prevent weed and grass growth. My concern would be that the spaces in between the fabric weave are too large, and that grass blades can get through it. However, the porous nature would allow water to penetrate, thus (in theory) allowing the plants I want to thrive without competition.

Good idea? Bad idea? Other ideas? Thanx.
 

frustratedearthmother

Sustainability Master
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Messages
20,600
Reaction score
22,936
Points
453
Location
USDA 9a
My best guess is that it will be too porous. I say that because I've used old carpet, and our grass/weeds will get through the carpet, so I'm guessing it will get through the bulap also. But, if you decide to try it - let us know how it works!
 

baymule

Sustainability Master
Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
10,749
Reaction score
18,768
Points
413
Location
East Texas
Weeds will grow through it. Just pile it up with fall leaves, mix with manure and cover with straw or grass clippings for a mulch.
 

Joel_BC

Super Self-Sufficient
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
1,284
Reaction score
318
Points
227
Location
Western Canada
Grass is very difficult to stop. Like my two friends who posted responses above, I think the burlap might suppress certain sorts of weeds, but not tough, vigorous grasses.

Around my area, people have used corrugated cardboard (e.g., for garden paths) covered with straw or sawdust. In the last two years, people have started using multi layers of newspaper (also, then, covered with straw or sawdust). The cardboard or newspaper mulch has to be renewed each spring, but seems to di a good job of weed suppression. Of course, you do not put it where you want the food plants to grow up from the soil.

With the newspaper, you wet the paper before laying it down on the ground, because that prevents the breeze from picking it up while you're doing the mulching. Newspaper layers have a few advantages over cardboard: In some places (like where I live) it can be easier than cardboard to acquire enough of it when you need it. It's easier to cut, if you need to, for shape or width. Easier to poke holes into it if you need to plant a seedling down through it.

In any case the newspaper or cardboard, and the straw or sawdust are biodegradable and will become part of the soil, in the end.
 

bubba1358

Enjoys Recycling
Joined
Aug 15, 2013
Messages
63
Reaction score
2
Points
19
Gotcha. Thanks, all - that's what I expected.
 

moolie

Almost Self-Reliant
Joined
Sep 23, 2009
Messages
2,741
Reaction score
14
Points
188
Late to the party, but I'll ditto the "hard to kill" comments. When we created our garden beds years ago, we put down two layers of cardboard under the compost, and a year later we had quack grass coming through in a few places.
 

Andy J

Enjoys Recycling
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
Points
22
I use paper feed sacks,split open and wet down.They last about 6 months and can be easily punched through if you want to plant something there.
 

~gd

Lovin' The Homestead
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
1,812
Reaction score
3
Points
99
Andy J said:
I use paper feed sacks,split open and wet down.They last about 6 months and can be easily punched through if you want to plant something there.
The "paper" feed sacks around here have a thin plastic layer that will not compost but they are great at preventing unwanted growth ~gd
 

Daffodils At The Sea

Power Conserver
Joined
Jun 11, 2013
Messages
130
Reaction score
4
Points
31
What has worked for me is really thick mowed (small particles) of grass and weeds in a mulch layer of about 10" thick, and however wide you want it. Maintain at least 6" thick all year long. It will shrink and get more dense. I add most of my mulch in the fall. Then in the spring when I mow the green stuff it just gets added on. It's a lot easier to control weeds in the fall before the spring growth spurt starts. Plus it holds in water, breaks down underneath improving the soil, and the worms will come closer to the top and "till" for you.

My deep mulch beds have been in place for 4 years over tough clay soil, and it's very loose now, easy to move with my fingers, lots of worms, no weeds around the vegetables. The weeds do grow at the edge of the mulch, but I mow the paths and that gets mowed away.

Carpeting is very toxic. You really don't want that stuff in your soil or in your food.
 
Top