Lazy Gardener

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Nah, not that much. I just used the pillowcase to beat the seed out of the chaff, and since I'll never use that pillowcase again, store the seed in it!

It may be too hot and dry for Nasturtiums, IMO, they like it on the moist and cool side. They like sun also, but you could try putting them in a shady area, or put them somewhere where there is frequent water hitting the ground. Perhaps under a hose bib, or where you rinse the bird's water buckets?
 

Beekissed

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Nah, not that much. I just used the pillowcase to beat the seed out of the chaff, and since I'll never use that pillowcase again, store the seed in it!

It may be too hot and dry for Nasturtiums, IMO, they like it on the moist and cool side. They like sun also, but you could try putting them in a shady area, or put them somewhere where there is frequent water hitting the ground. Perhaps under a hose bib, or where you rinse the bird's water buckets?

Hot and DRY, in WV??? :gig You jest! We never do hot and dry...hot and damp as a warm, wet towel? That we do from the end of July to mid-August and even beyond, but dry is something we rarely, if ever, do.

The mulching in this garden and the heavy clay soils keep the ground TOO cool for some things like peppers, so I have to put landscape fabric down or plant them directly into rotting hay bales to get it warm enough for them to prosper due to the heavy mulching here.

Last year we had the wettest year on record, from what I heard. This year doesn't appear that it's going to be as bad, but I don't know...we had tons of rain all winter. Wet, we have. I never have to water a garden.

We'll give them one more try this year but if they don't make it, even after being babied along in trays and transplanting to the garden, I'll pronounce them as one of those things that simply cannot be done here....like sweet onions and carrots.
 

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I take the "can't be done here" as a personal challenge. Thus, I spend time planting peppers, and carrots, and onions, and now egg plant. Some years, I disprove the hypothesis! Kind of like being a gambling addict. Just a tiny little reward is enough to spur me on to further time and soil investment.
 

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I take the "can't be done here" as a personal challenge. Thus, I spend time planting peppers, and carrots, and onions, and now egg plant. Some years, I disprove the hypothesis! Kind of like being a gambling addict. Just a tiny little reward is enough to spur me on to further time and soil investment.

I try three years, then I move on to something that actually produces. Space is limited here in this garden, so everything has to have a purpose, even those things that look pretty and grow well, like the zinnias. I give them space as they are a proven entity.

Everything else, especially food or plants that are supposed to help grow food, must produce or else. This garden isn't a hobby, but a food plot, so I like to count on reliable producers that will give me a sustainable supply of food year after year. That's one reason I don't experiment around with different tomato varieties or tater varieties any longer...it's too serious a business to me. I'll be depending more and more on a clean food source in my life and trying to work away from buying so many staples from commercial sources.

This fall I intend to extend the garden back almost to its original size, which will include the new apple trees...one or two of which will need to be moved to accomplish this. This will keep the apples from those low growing trees from getting nipped off by sheep and deer, plus those trees will benefit from the nutrient flow from the mulching.
 

frustratedearthmother

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I finally got around to at least "thinking" about some gardening. I've moved several of the big cattle protein tubs to a move convenient place. Most of the previously purchased dirt has settled down to the point where they're only about 1/3 full. So, I moseyed out to the barn and shoveled up a garden cart full of well aged poo. It's likely mostly goat poo with a bit of horse mixed in and some well composted hay droppings. I'm going to mix that in with the soil already in there and see if I can make anything grow! Yay - got my hands dirty and it feels great!
 

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Now, here's an interesting little chart. I found it to be quite the eye opener. This information can be put to good use: What can the gardener do to ensure good germination when direct sowing? There are several methods that can be employed.

9029-chart600.jpg


1. Pre soak or even germinate your seeds, and sow them on a warm day. If you use any of these methods, you need to be careful that you don't soak them too long. That will encourage rot. And, if you pre-sprout your seeds, they must get planted immediately at the first sign of germination. Pre-sprouted seedlings are very delicate, and it's easy to break the root or cotyledons off... which will kill the sprout.

2. Pre-heat your soil. I employ this practice when ever possible. I hang on to large sheets of plastic, and use them multiple times. Covering the soil with plastic before planting works best if the plastic is in direct contact with the soil. When it's time to plant, it's best to remove the plastic so you don't scorch the seeds when they sprout. Even a day or two of extra solarization will do wonders to warm up a bed before you plant it. Then, you can move that sheet of plastic on to the next bed.

Depending on the temperature, and the crop, I may trench the rows under the plastic. This works especially well with corn. Dig a 4" furrow, and plant the corn at the bottom of the furrow. You can then leave the plastic in place. The furrows result in little inverted grow tunnels. Of course, you must monitor soil temps and remove the plastic if things heat up too much. Then, as the corn grows, it's a simple matter to use a hoe to pull the soil up around the plants. Thus, hilling your corn, and killing any weeds that sprout in those little trenches.

3. Sow in a low tunnel, or erect a low tunnel over your row/bed after you've sowed your seed. You can also use milk jugs, or wrap a tomato cage in plastic. I even lay tomato cages on their side down the length of a bed, and lay the plastic over the cages. This makes an instant low tunnel if you stake down/ weigh down/ or bury the sides of the plastic with soil. Beware: tunnels and plastic containers quickly overheat. You must monitor the climate inside!
 
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Lazy Gardener

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Junebugaboo

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So glad I stumbled across this thread...will definitely be trying tomato cage tunnels for my peppers. Even though I'm in zone 9, it doesn't get hot enough for them until September.

One thing that really worked for me and that I've been continuing to do is a fall crop of fava beans on one tier of my terrace to rejuvenate the soil...grows pretty well over winter and really starts to blossom late February and March (the bees even come out for this!). You can harvest the beans really young or wait until the pods are monsters, but a lot of people I know that grow them don't even eat them (they are pretty time-consuming to process if you're drying the beans). They just grow them for a cover crop.

After they died back the first time I grew them, we cut their stalks to the ground, left the roots in, and eventually planted about 12-14 Roma tomatoes in that spot. And holy WOW, we've never had a tomato crop like that. Granted, we also had a lot of Brandywines, Beefsteak, and cherries. I really can't remember how many cans of sauce and salsa, frozen sauce, pizza sauce, bruschetta, etc. we had that year, but it was more than enough to last us until the next year! The fava beans worked wonders...
 
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