Sharpening the chainsaw

[User4960]

I can't actually tell where those oil ports are when I take the cover off for cleaning. I usually get a piece of broken wood with that angled edge of it to use as a cleaning tool. Seems to work pretty good.

One time after cleaning my Stihl like this, the chain seemed to not be getting any oil. So I stopped immediately and cleaned some more in there, then the chain was well oiled again. Oh, another thing I do is when I add oil, (and fuel always at the same time), I let a little oil drip right on the bar. It's gonna drip some anyway, may as well be on the bar.

I like how my chainsaw puts plenty of oil on the chain, but while cleaning, it is just hit and miss getting the oil ports clean since I really don't know where they are. Only that one time did I miss the oil port things. Maybe it's a good thing I don't know. Makes me have to clean more places!

I have never changed any carburetor setting, or any kind of motor settings on my saw.

I'm left handed, not the strongest man, but plenty strong enough, and at 56 years old got my first chainsaw. I assisted plenty of people using a chainsaw before I got mine. A couple are real true experts like you flytyer. Gary supervised a crew for years, and Terre has been cutting firewood for decades. Both have slightly different styles, and I learn from both. Yes, Gary uses the whole bar and plunge cuts, widens gaps, sets a hinge for the drop. Terre does easier trees and does a straight single down angle for the drop. I prefer the hinge, slight or thick, with an appropriate precut about a 3rd in, the final slash down from a bit higher than Gary. I sometimes have trees a bit more difficult than Terre tackles.../quick to add...nowhere near as difficult I am sure than trees you do flytyer...but I am in an area where there are structures, and I have to make sure, failure is not optional, that I fell it where it needs to go. Pretty much I do not attempt to make a tree fall where it will not want to. Best to put it close to where it'll want to, at least at my level. If it looks like it wants to fell on a structure, I do not touch that tree, leaving it for Gary or the tree crew. (Hats off to their expertise!)

My saw is a little MS180C, and it really runs great! Some time within a year I will be getting a more serious saw now that I have the feel for the right handed tool. Then I will have 2 saws. One for the bigger cuts, and the little saw's chain will stay sharp longer just cutting the twigs and brush off. (Sometimes those twigs have been dead awhile and have hardened up, and some chunks filled with sap are like cutting through a chunk of sugar!)

Main question is, how do I find the oil ports? I always, except but once, get them clean first try, but I do not know where they are, what I'm cleaning. I like that Rollomatic bar my saw has. A simple adjustment with a cog on the bar gear. I have never thrown a chain. Hope I never do!

 

[Flytyer24]

First Off I am no expert... I don't do this for a living just have had some real pros teach me.

I hope you being left handed still hold the trigger with your right hand and the front handle with your left. It is much safer keeps that chain on the opposite side of the saw. And actually still makes sense cause your left hand is on the main handle..

For your question... The oil Ports are usually above and below the slot in the bar. they are just small little holes that I just use a awl or small pick to clean them out.

As far as cutting method I believe the plunge cut is the safest. This is where you cut you wedge with an opening of 70 degrees or greater pointed in the direction of the fall.(if there is side lean you have to overcompensate). Once you have that cut I plunge the saw through the tree starting the cut with the bottom corner of the saw. This sets your hinge. You can now cut away the back and leave what we call a trigger. step back the tree will stay. Then you can just clip the last bit.

The old way of just cutting in from the back gives you no control. Once you commit it's all over you better have it right.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFTOlmCijjs

This guy is using the same method... Look up info on GAME OF LOGGING (GOL). A really good video. Pretty much says everything I have but it's a little easier to understand.
(You don't have to use a wedge if there isn't much lean)


I also suggest when ever you drop a tree put a stick out where you want to drop it... This way you can learn and always drop it where you want it. You can also look at your stump to see if you wedge was angled right... You dissect each cut you will see why trees do what they do.

Make sure you have a chain catch on the bottom of the saw so if you ever throw a chain or break one it catches that and not your hand.

But change that cog every two chains you burn through.

 

[User4960]

Yes, I use it right handed, and it feels good. I don't use it backwards. I tried, very carefully, a couple times, using it backward. It's not right. I use it like a right handed person, and it is good.

Saxophones are actually a left handed musical instrument, djaknowthat? Lol!

 

[User4960]

Thank you Flytyer, that is a lot of info, and I will digest it.

Oh. Sometimes I scratch an X in the ground where I expect the tip of the tree to land. Twice I actually nailed it. I'm usually within a foot, and usually the tree is shorter than I estimated.

Oh. I do not holler "Timber" when it goes down.
For some reason, I holler "Bingo". Lol!!!

 

[Flytyer24]

Thank you Flytyer, that is a lot of info, and I will digest it.

Oh. Sometimes I scratch an X in the ground where I expect the tip of the tree to land. Twice I actually nailed it. I'm usually within a foot, and usually the tree is shorter than I estimated.

Oh. I do not holler "Timber" when it goes down.
For some reason, I holler "Bingo". Lol!!!

haha. It is fun when you get it right. It starts building your confidence. That video I posted... look at his other videos he actually has some handy ones.

Good Sawing.

 

[Nifty]

(with my little electric saw I feel like the kid with toys around the men with their tools)

 

[Flytyer24]

(with my little electric saw I feel like the kid with toys around the men with their tools)

Nifty, I have used those little saws a lot. They are great for carpentry. And they need sharpening too! Know you tools! The Size of your chain and bar will have different files.

http://www.pferdusa.com/info/PDF/CSF.PDF

This is a link to files and a little run down on chainsaw chain styles... There is a file guide in this one too... But I prefer the husky roller style myself.

 

[Joel_BC]

The old way of just cutting in from the back gives you no control. Once you commit it's all over you better have it right.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFTOlmCijjs

That's a good vid. You're right, some of his other vids are fun, too.

With the tree falling vid, essentially he teaches the same notch & back-cut method I learned from some older guys when I was in my early twenties. Except he's more precise (like when he says make the notch width 80% the diameter of the tree)... my "teachers" just said "do it like this" then demonstrated. We always visualized where the notch and back-cut would direct the tree - compensating for lean, etc.

His assessment method for the top of the tree, as related to where the tree should be visualized as dropping, is interesting. It's different from what I do because I'm mostly working with "evergreen" coniferous trees, and the very numerous limbs often come down within 4-5 feet of the ground, with the tree's upper portion being sorta conical. You can't actually see a tree's upper portions in the same way when it's teeming with live limbs that are bristling full of green needles!

 

[Flytyer24]

The old way of just cutting in from the back gives you no control. Once you commit it's all over you better have it right.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFTOlmCijjs

That's a good vid. You're right, some of his other vids are fun, too.

With the tree falling vid, essentially he teaches the same notch & back-cut method I learned from some older guys when I was in my early twenties. Except he's more precise (like when he says make the notch width 80% the diameter of the tree)... my "teachers" just said "do it like this" then demonstrated. We always visualized where the notch and back-cut would direct the tree - compensating for lean, etc.

His assessment method for the top of the tree, as related to where the tree should be visualized as dropping, is interesting. It's different from what I do because I'm mostly working with "evergreen" coniferous trees, and the very numerous limbs often come down within 4-5 feet of the ground, with the tree's upper portion being sorta conical. You can't actually see a tree's upper portions in the same way when it's teeming with live limbs that are bristling full of green needles!

Joel,

With plunge cutting you leave a portion of the back of the tree while you set the hinge. In the video you can see the bar come out the other side of the tree. This is what he is refering to when he says the strap. With the old "chasing hinge" you made your notch and then just cut in the back towards the hinge. The idea of setting your hinge lets you put wedges in and you will never pinch a saw blade. Allows for you to be out of the way and if your cutting for lumber you won't get fiber pull. That is when you have a big strip that got pulled out of your log.


As for the assesment method it is a wat of determining the direction of lean and where that weight is gonna want to go... It is a lot of experience but you can sometimes geustimate this. With conifers like you cut its the same Idea but I think its easier because unlike oak you won't have one huge limb that will make the weight really out of proportion.

This has been a good thread I hope I am semi clear when I type.

 

[Joel_BC]

Joel,

With plunge cutting you leave a portion of the back of the tree while you set the hinge. In the video you can see the bar come out the other side of the tree. This is what he is refering to when he says the strap. The idea of setting your hinge lets you put wedges in and you will never pinch a saw blade. Allows for you to be out of the way and if your cutting for lumber you won't get fiber pull. That is when you have a big strip that got pulled out of your log.

It would have been better if the videographer had shown that "strap" as a close-up, while the guy was plunge-cutting through and leaving the strap. After your comment, I had to watch the vid again to see how they tried to explain and illustrate that. But, yeah, quite a few times I've driven my wedge(s) in after my saw bar got pinched. The "strap" method would avoid that situation.