Crealbilly Wood Working thread

CrealCritter

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You and my son! He would do the same thing (well, something similar) to every vehicle he ever owned. Might not be under the back seat cuz at least one of his truck was a single cab - but he built something that fit behind the seat and was the width of the truck cab.

I like your son already :) please show your son the pictures - I'm curious what he has to say. Tell him the box will hold 2 10" 1400 watts sub woofers and 2 6 1/2 300 watt mid range. The box is made out of red 3/4" red maple (not plywood). I got the top and face glue ups in clamps now. It kind of looks like a table top to me. I managed to squeeze 1.03 cuft for each 10" sub woofer.

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CrealCritter

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Asheville NC yes absolutely! I did a few fairs, taught several classes about making logs into lumber and had a fair number of customers that I sold hardwood lumber to in Asheville. Hickory & Raleigh is where I had my most customers though. Hickory NC used to be the furniture capital of the world before most everything moved to China and became crap. But there are still a lot of real talented craftsman left around Hickory NC, even to this day.
 

CrealCritter

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I never did post a picture of the underseat solid maple speaker box for the veggie hauler. But here it is loaded with 2 10" subwoofers and 2 6 1/2" midrange drivers. After all was said and done, I ended up with closed enclosures of 1.07 cubic ft for each subwoofer and .27 cubic ft for each midrange. The box was a challenge for me not a 90 degree angle in any of the joints. The face radius cut to fit perfectly over the drive shaft hump was the worst. But I got it done after a little frustration. Each individual chamber is air tight, so all of my cuts had to be on the money and believe it or not I didn't make one mistake - I think that might be a first ever for me.

Anyways it's fastened together with construction screws and glued with titebond #1 (original) wood glue which is the only wood glue that doesn't impede acoustical characteristics of wood (beside horse hid glue). Its finished a few thin coats of poly urethane. The speaker box rocks... I was so glad to get rid of that thump thump thump that you hear from speaker boxes made of MDF and covered in carpet :( this box really made the bass come alive and now my truck sounds like a good high quality home stereo.

Loaded with speakers the thing weighes just a little under 123 lbs. It's solid 3/4" thick maple. It took my son and me to carry it out of the shop and position it under the backseat of the veggie hauler. It fit like a glove and was almost like I knew what I was doing or something. My son kept saying it's not gonna fit. I kept saying I measured twice and cut once :) when we got it in and it fit, I said to him "see son - just like down town but this is better because it's the country." He thought that was pretty funny.

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CrealCritter

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Not sure what to call this... Is it a childs rocker or is it a baby doll cradle ? Well I guess it's both. So I guess I'll call it a child's rockin' doll cradle.

It's made of flat sawn wide board sawmill red maple. No special joinery or fancy woodworking. Just quick and easy glue, screws and butt joints. Finish is 3 coats clear oil based polyurethane.

My grand daughters absolutely love it - yes... more satisfied customers :)

Front
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Side
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Bottom
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CrealCritter

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@CrealCritter - Getting back into this thread as we get back into working with our sawmill. Haven't been back through the thread, but do you have experience making cutting boards? We were extremely blessed with two big Black Walnut logs and we're making our cabin door, maybe a table or two, and hopefully a handful of cutting boards. I hear mineral oil is good to finish with, maybe a bit of beeswax added? We were finally able to invest in a planer so I am really stoked to see what comes of it. Also, the logs are so massive we are expecting to have leftovers even after that- any ideas for one or two inch thick pieces, not too wide? These monsters were over 20" wide in places, so we will have some excess when we cut it up to foot wide for it to fit in planer. Thought of putting some 1 inch up for maybe jewelry boxes?

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It's very unusual for black walnut to show heartwood past the solid black line that separates heartwood from the creamy colored sap wood. Very nice looking Walnut you have there, I can almost smell it and it's making me itchy just looking at it from here.

Please be careful and try and not saw to much at one time and not very frequently. Sad to say you might end up like me and become allergic to it, and break out in itchy hives. I already know if I have walnut to saw, it's two Benadryl and a shower directly after I'm done. I'm only allergic to the green/wet wood and sawdust. I have no issues once it's dry and can woodwork it all day long, which is really odd.

Walnut always amazes me, every log is like unwrapping a Christmas present, nice work!
 

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@CrealCritter - Luckily the logs sat and dried here with no issues and look good on the inside, so cutting them has been no issue as they're really dried out. It was a shame to know they had cut such a massive tree, but gratefully we plan to put it all to use. Even the outside pieces and parts of the knots we are cutting up for crafts. And yes, it is definitely like a present! We ran out of gas for the day when I posted so I can't wait to continue cutting into it more and see what the grain looks like.

This is just a small piece outside piece cut originally with the chainsaw mill. Sanded a little, woodburned freehand, and spray lacquered (turned it super dark) with intent to sell but I may just keep it :D
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CrealCritter

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@CrealCritter - I thought I may have seen you mention this one time, but I'm just getting back on SS. How do you dry your lumber? We're finally expanding what we do and looking at how to kiln dry the wood. Would love some input. Also, have you ever had luck reaching out to any tree services about dropping logs off to you? Thanks kindly
Drying lumber is a whole nother art. What are your plans? How many board foot and species are you wanting to dry at the same time?

Each species has its own safe SMCLP (safe moisture content loss perday). If your under SMCLP then you risk mold defect, if you dry too fast you risk checking and warp defect.

It's very difficult to dry mixed species or even the same species of different thicknesses together in a kiln because different species have different SMCLP.

Then there is also a sterlization cycle near the end where you heat the lumber up to kill off any insects like powder post beatles for example. Spruce Pine Fir (SPF) also needs to be heated up even higher to set the pitch in the lumber.

Start with Kyle dehumidification kiln, they seem to work well and it's what I used in a insulated shipping container. I had pretty good success with Kyle. But like I said it's an art and will take some learning through trial and error to get comfortable running a wood kiln.

Start here and see what you think. There's more than one way to dry lumber and it really depends on what your needs are. I can try and give you some pointers and tips, if you would like.


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CrealCritter

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I opened this, expecting to see what work of art you are working on now. Sigh…..

But now that I’m here, I got a question. If I were to build a kitchen countertop of wood, what would I use to seal, finish and protect it? Would a resin work?

If I were to make my own flooring, using different size rounds, same question. Would mortar between rounds be ok and what kind?
Check out WiseBond Deep Pour or one of the many knock offs. Basically it's a clear 2 part epoxy resin that's pourable and self leveling.

A wood cookie floor that's so cool. I would go a minimum of 2" thick cookies so you have plenty to sand before running out. I would also think about the same finish for the floor. But I would also call WiseBond and get someone on the phone who knows more than I do.

https://www.wisebond.com/collections/deep-pour-epoxy-resin

I once did a record album floor with bartop finish. It also is a two part epoxy but it was before the deep pour epoxies came out in the mainstream.

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CrealCritter

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How does that hold up to floor traffic, mud, sand and so forth? And how does it hold up to years of use and abuse as a counter top?

That's kind of the neat thing about that deep pour expoxy. When it gets beat up badly, you just sand down past the ugly and buff it out to a good as new finish. It's pretty tough stuff when it dries. I wouldn't go using it as a butcher block or anything like that though. Give WiseBond a call I'm sure they will answer any questions you may have.

Edit... here's one where the tinted the epoxy black to make the cookies pop.
maybe this is two pours a black first and clear over top?
download (4).jpeg



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baymule

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Of course this provides the perfect excuse for buying power tools, table saw, planer, sander, etc. and learning how to use them. :ya
 
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