baymule
Sustainability Master
Sometimes things just happen. Glad you at least got a few chicks out of it.
Pj homestead
- Thread starter Pjhomestead
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- #32
Pjhomestead
Almost Self-Reliant
At least there was 2. If it was only one it would have been hard I would have had to get some chicks so it wouldn't be alone. I have been having trouble keeping the humidity under control. I think it's time to look into a new incubator. None of my girls have gone broody so I have also been thinking about getting some silkies as they tend to go broody a lot and then I wouldn't need the incubator. My turkey hen goes broody but right now I need the eggs so I haven't let her gather eggs. Once I let her go I can slip some eggs under her
Lazy Gardener
Super Self-Sufficient
If you could re-wire a lamp, given decent instructions, you can easily build your own incubator. Add to that a calibrated thermometer (calibrated against a medical thermometer) and a salt calibrated hygrometer, and your hatches will be astounding. Total cost: less than $30.00. Hubby and I have built 2. First with bimetal thermostat, second with digital thermostat.
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- #34
Pjhomestead
Almost Self-Reliant
I built the one I am using including the egg turner. Everything is working perfectly except for the humidity. I can keep it constant between 40-50% right up to lockdown but no matter what I try I cant get it to stay between 60-70% I have tried different size water trays with different size sponges I can get the humidity up but cant keep it there and the chicks end up shrinkwraped.
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- #36
Pjhomestead
Almost Self-Reliant
I'll have to run the incubator for a few days and give that a try
Lazy Gardener
Super Self-Sufficient
What is the humidity in your house?, your heat source? Sometimes, it becomes necessary to run a humidifier in the incubator room. I've never had to do so, even with wood heat, but have heard of folks who have needed to do so.
Have you done a salt calibration on your hygrometer? Perhaps spray down the walls of your bator at first pip?
Are you sure that shrink wrapping is your issue? I get good hatches running at 30% until lock down. (30% is my goal, but during that time, a reading may be as low as 11% or as high as 40%.) For hatch, I bump up to 65%. When the babies start hatching, they will add to the humidity!
Monitoring air cell size is my guide. If air cells are too small or too big, according to the development charts, I then adjust the humidity accordingly. At times, I've had to run completely dry from day 14 through first pip to get air cells where I want them. Particularly if the outside weather is humid. If air cells are too small, the chicks drown when they pip. An other factor associated with air cells being too small is: the chicks grow too large, then can't easily hatch.
I use sponges as humidity source throughout my entire incubation period. Stand them up in a cup of water so they wick. Adjust size of sponge or number of sponges according to need. I cut them into 1 - 2" strips to make it easy to adjust. I've even resorted to screwing an extra sponge to the side of the bator b/c there was no floor space to accommodate the extra sponge needed during hatch.
You mentioned water trays and sponges. Are the sponges laying flat in the trays? If so, that may be your problem. If the water level is close to the top of the sponge surface, you're really not gaining any surface area by adding the sponge.
And, finally: are you opening that bator between first pip and last hatch? I will open the bator if needed, but only if my humidity is staying up, and I know a drop will only last a minute or two. I keep humidity up in bator with a syringe and aquarium tubing so I don't need to open it to add water.
Are they hatching between day 20 and day 22? Does their development (when candling) match the embryonic development charts? Is it possible you have some genetic issues? What breeds?
Just a few thoughts.
Agreed, having a broody takes the guess work out of the hatch. I've enjoyed my broody hatches. But... it's nice to know that I could return to bator if necessary. Nothing as sweet as holding that warm egg in my hand and seeing the little chicklet dancing in there!!!
Have you done a salt calibration on your hygrometer? Perhaps spray down the walls of your bator at first pip?
Are you sure that shrink wrapping is your issue? I get good hatches running at 30% until lock down. (30% is my goal, but during that time, a reading may be as low as 11% or as high as 40%.) For hatch, I bump up to 65%. When the babies start hatching, they will add to the humidity!
Monitoring air cell size is my guide. If air cells are too small or too big, according to the development charts, I then adjust the humidity accordingly. At times, I've had to run completely dry from day 14 through first pip to get air cells where I want them. Particularly if the outside weather is humid. If air cells are too small, the chicks drown when they pip. An other factor associated with air cells being too small is: the chicks grow too large, then can't easily hatch.
I use sponges as humidity source throughout my entire incubation period. Stand them up in a cup of water so they wick. Adjust size of sponge or number of sponges according to need. I cut them into 1 - 2" strips to make it easy to adjust. I've even resorted to screwing an extra sponge to the side of the bator b/c there was no floor space to accommodate the extra sponge needed during hatch.
You mentioned water trays and sponges. Are the sponges laying flat in the trays? If so, that may be your problem. If the water level is close to the top of the sponge surface, you're really not gaining any surface area by adding the sponge.
And, finally: are you opening that bator between first pip and last hatch? I will open the bator if needed, but only if my humidity is staying up, and I know a drop will only last a minute or two. I keep humidity up in bator with a syringe and aquarium tubing so I don't need to open it to add water.
Are they hatching between day 20 and day 22? Does their development (when candling) match the embryonic development charts? Is it possible you have some genetic issues? What breeds?
Just a few thoughts.
Agreed, having a broody takes the guess work out of the hatch. I've enjoyed my broody hatches. But... it's nice to know that I could return to bator if necessary. Nothing as sweet as holding that warm egg in my hand and seeing the little chicklet dancing in there!!!
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Mini Horses
Sustainability Master
I love my broodies….they've never asked me for a wet sponge 
frustratedearthmother
Sustainability Master
sumi
Rest in Peace 1980-2020
My son's game hen went broody twice on clutches of eggs that she went and laid on the stone wall between me and the neighbour's yard. She finally started laying in the nest box he made for her in the shed now, so I told him to leave her eggs there. If she goes broody again, I'll get some eggs for her to hatch for me. They are just so much easier than incubators! And as a bonus they raise the chicks for you as well.
